Keratin fibre is commonly reconfigured by humans when they have their hair permanently waved. However, permanent waving of human hair is not the only application of permanent waving. For example, the textile industry has a need to permanently wave wool for some applications.
The conventional permanent waving process for human hair is performed in the following manner:
(i) Human hair is cleaned by washing with shampoo, for example, and then rinsed.
(ii) The hair is then typically wound onto a mandrel.
(iii) A reducing agent is applied to the hair to reconfigure the hair. The reducing agent is left on the hair for a sufficient time period to ensure reconfiguration of the hair. This time period depends upon the concentration of reducing agent, pH of solution, and texture and quality of the hair. Generally, for the process of permanently waving human hair the reducing agent is typically left on the hair for a time period which can be between 5 and 45 minutes. Human hair is considered reconfigured, from a chemical point of view, when the S--S cystine linkages of the hair and possibly other bonds within the hair have been weakened or broken.
(iv) The reducing agent is then thoroughly rinsed from the hair. The rinsing period depends upon the length and type of hair, concentration of reducing agent and complexity and quantity of mandrels employed. For the permanent waving of human hair the rinsing period is typically from 10 to 30 minutes. During the rinsing of their hair a person is typically seated at a basin and copious amounts of water are used to flush the reducing agent from the hair.
(v) The hair is then blotted to remove any excess moisture.
(vi) An oxidizing agent is then applied to the hair and left there for sufficient time to set the cystine linkages. The length of the period for which the oxidizing agent is left on the hair depends on the concentration of the oxidizing agent and the type of oxidizing agent employed. The oxidizing agent reconstitutes or sets the cystine S--S linkages in the hair to the configuration of the hair around the mandrel.
(vii) The hair is then rinsed to remove the oxidizing agent.
There are many cold and warm wave products which are utilized in present permanent waving processes. As far as the present inventors are aware the hairdressing industry, which is the principle user of products used in the current permanent waving process for keratin fibre, specifically human hair, universally has available to it products which all require and specify rinsing of the hair with water between the application of the reducing agent and the application of the oxidizing agent.
The conventional process for permanent waving of hair requires two rinsing steps:
(a) a mid process rinsing step when hair is most vulnerable to damage, that is, after the reducing agent has swollen the hair and dishevelled the cystine. This rinsing step takes place prior to the application of an oxidizing agent used to reset the linkages and bonds; and
(b) a final rinsing step after the application of oxidizing agent to set the linkages. A major disadvantage of present processes for reconfiguring keratin fibre and more particularly processes for permanent waving of human hair is associated with the lengthy rinsing of the reducing agent from the hair before application of an oxidizing agent. This rinsing takes place whilst the cystine S--S linkages, and other linkages, in the hair are in an unstable or reactive state. The structure of the hair can be degraded when movement occurs whilst the hair is in this reactive state. Further, rinsing human hair is a time consuming and uncomfortable process for both the person carrying out the process and the person on which the process is being done. The person on which the process is being performed is subjected to a continuous, uncomfortable rinsing period of up to 30 minutes prior to the application of the oxidizing agent. Typically the person has his or her neck bent back over a rinsing tray and this can result in a stiff and/or sore neck. Also reducing agent and/or water can be splashed over such a person during this rinsing step. A major economical disadvantage relating to the rinsing of reducing agent from the hair is the time it adds to the permanent waving process of up to 30 minutes. This reduces the number of clients on which an operator can carry out the permanent waving process.